Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Summer sewing

I've really enjoyed wearing my Rachel Comey brown denim skirt during winter and thought this wonderful burnt orange linen, purchased from Tessuti, would make a perfect summer skirt.

This time I used the same fabric for the pockets as I was concerned about show through. 

I lined it with Sun Silky and this was the best colour match that I could find and also tried out my rolled hem foot for the lining hem. 

and the back view

and someone managed to be in most of my photos!

There is a new top to go with this skirt on the sewing table so fingers crossed I will be back soon.

Stash Out:  21.65 m
Stash In:     16.3 m

Monday, September 9, 2013

Drum roll please ....

the Trench is finished Facebook smileys

It first started here, then the toile and pattern changes and lastly how it looked when you last saw it,

and now!

This has been one of the most challenging projects I have undertaken ever, but so worth it.

The rain coat fabric had its own requirements, but once I worked up the courage it was very easy to work with.
  •  I used fusible interfacing, Sheerweft TM for the facings and this fused very well using my Singer Magic Press, 
  • I used a Sharps needle,and increased the stitch length for my top stitching to 3.5 (previously using 3)
  • The fabric ravels quite a bit, so I over-locked/serged all the seams.

When you last saw the trench I had basted in the lining.  When I sat down again to work on the trench I realised I should have sat down a lot sooner and sorted out my to do list in a logical construction order as I hadn't,
  • added the hanging strap,
  • installed the eyelets on the storm flaps,
  • made or sewn on the belt loops,
  • made and sewn on the double d-ring closure at the neck edge
this meant I had to do a lot of "going back"!

Now for a lot of  detailed photos:

Pocket bags secured to seams
This is a great tip from my sewing buddy Dilliander which she has posted on Pattern Review.

Batting used for sleeve cap

Bagged the sleeves using this great tutorial from Grainline Studio

Caught the lining on the sleeve seams to stop the sleeves moving forward

French Tacks from Couture Sewing Techniques at the shoulder and underarm seams

Pockets made for hem weights

Interfacing fused at hem, weights in place and hems finished

French seams used for the lining

Double D rings for neck closure, storm flaps have eyelets with washers installed using a Prym Kit
I purchased from the UK.

A closer look at the zippered pocket on left sleeve

Belts and buckles.

Lining with piping and hanging strap

Concealed buttons

oops, I missed a belt loop!

and last of all

can we go play now!
Even with the challenges and time this has taken I am thrilled with my Trench and look to forward to getting a lot of wear from it.

Stash Out:  19.25m
Stash In:  3.3

Thursday, September 5, 2013

Dressmaking with Stitches - Housekeeping

I have received a couple of messages to say that the links for the Indexes for the magazines have not been working.

It turns out that the company I was using to host the files on has been sold but now the new company is providing an excellent service and I have today updated all the links for the Indexes.

I am slowly working on getting Volume 21 finished, maybe a Christmas present for us all!

Sunday, September 1, 2013

Silk Boxer Shorts

It was our wedding anniversary this weekend and I have always given DH a traditional gift each year, and this year it is linen or silk.

For some reason I left this to last week to organise so this would have to be the quickest project so far for me.

I purchased the silk from The Silk Shop on Monday, pre-washed it on Tuesday, finally found the pattern on Friday night and had it gift wrapped for DH for our wedding anniversary today!

I have again used Jalie 2326 but this time I referred to the great tips from Martyn Smith in Dressmaking with Stitches, Volume 18 No.12 and added 1cm (3/8") to the side seams and an extra 6mm (1/4") to the front in-leg and curved crotch seams which let me do French Seams throughout.

The silk had a shiny and matt side, so I used the matt for the right side.

The only thing I need to do now is add a button to the fly front which of course I didn't have a suitable one in the stash!

My lovely card contained a very generous offer to go fabric shopping!!

Now to get back to the Trench Coat!